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Author:Toni Crew
Gry Bastholm
Crew Vagn Larsen
Feb./Mar. 2007

15-Feb-2007

The day of our departure from the Galapagos islands had arrived and a stretch of over 3000 nautical miles (5400 km) lays ahead of us. It is more miles then crossing the Atlantic Ocean. Our last anchorage on the west coast of Isela Isabella gave us an interesting farewell. It is the only location in the world of the flightless Cormorant. Good bye to the turtles, tortoises, seals and sharks, the blue footed booby and Iguanas and the volcanic landscape. Not a good day to start this long journey with wind from the south west and squally rain showers. Reluctantly we motor into the wind , but the question is for, how long shall we motor? We certainly have not got enough fuel to last us even half way. We decided to lay a hull and wait for more suitable wind. Even though the Ocean was calm Little Swan rolls with the swell and makes life uncomfortable. Gry got sick!


Cormorant

16-Feb-07

Day 2 A rainy gray morning greets us with the Galapagos Islands still on the horizon, very frustrating. We motor for 6 hours which we decided is the allowable time per day if conditions remain unfavorable for us. All those rumors of the El Nino and La Nina pass through my thoughts. We only covered a distance of 30 nm in 24 hours. Gry is getting better and doing her shifts. Dinner was fried chicken, fried potatoes and cabbage salad.
17-Feb-07

Day 3 We had a calm night with very little wind and we motor for another 6 hours. The wind chart indicates 5 calm days/month near the Galapagos islands (Equator) with variable winds from just about any other directions. We copped the worst. Further south near 8 degrees south, the wind is better with zero number of calm days and a 75 % chance of wind suitable for us. Obviously we need to get south as quickly as possible. We heard of some yachts, that they motor straight south for 400 miles and catch the trade winds within 3 days or so, others could still spot the Galapagos after 5 days at sea.

GPS
18-Feb-07

Day 4 On the 4th day we were only 4 degrees south and had sailed (motored) only a 185 nm towards the Marquesas. Not good at all. Even whistling for wind did not help! A blocked bilge pump added to the gray mood of the day. Dismantling it and unblocking it was easy in the calm seas.


Bread

20-Feb-07

Day 6 Overcast and raining a lot but getting a bit of wind from the ENE and now sailing at 6 knots. We are now at 6 degrees south and 97 degrees west. We also caught a nice sized Tuna supplementing our food supply.

21-Feb-07


Day 7 Good sailing now, averaging 6 knots and have done a 140 nm in the last 24 hours. It looks that we are now in the trade winds and doing good sailing speed in the right direction. We are now 7 degrees south and 100 degrees west heading SW. We mostly sail with 2 reefs in the main and the Genoa polled out. Half the time it is only the Genoa poled out. The days click by.

We do our 3 hour shifts day and night. I bake a bread nearly every day.

A nice sized Wahoo also gets butchered and some extra meat salted, air and sun dried for emergency delicatessens.

Wahoo 1

Wahoo 2
28-Feb-07

Day 14 We have reached half way mark with 1 475 nm to go. I usually feel it is getting faster after the half way mark. The wind direction has changed to ENE at 20 knots and we jib to sail NW for a while. It will bring us closer to the rhumb line and when the wind goes back to E or SE we resume our direct course to Hiva Oa. One more fish took our lure and was heaved on board for butchering.


We have enough fish to last a while, so no more fishing. We sail mostly on a broad reach or running free. Little Swan is in a screwdriver rolling motion nearly all the time. Not the most comfortable existence on board.
It is hard to cook or for that matter to do anything. To while the days away we play chess, where Vagn always win or “Connect four” where I mostly win.
At night we mostly ref down and slow the boat for comfort. In the morning we collect all the flying fish we landed mistakenly on deck. Our daily distance sailed towards target is averaging a 124 nm in 24 hours.

This is satisfactory to us and Little Swan likes the easy going 6 knots of speed. Our ETA in Hiva Oa (estimated time of arrival) now to be the 10th of March. A spectacular sight was experienced when the ocean burst into a wild splashing sea.

Chees

Ocean Sunset

Vagn on emergency steering
A pod of Fraser’s Dolphin’s in the hundreds travel passed us, hammering their tail onto the surface to make power full splashes. But before we had the camera ready, they were nearly out of sight.

A couple of days out of the Marquesas a hydraulic cooper line developed a leak of hydraulic fluid, which makes steering Little Swan impossible. We discovered the leak’s location at a most awkward place, behind the engine near the spinning propeller shaft. Action station: We fitted the emergency tiller steering to regain steering control.

(see Picture Vagn on emergency steering) Stopping the propeller shaft from turning was not easy, it spins due of the flow of water across the propeller while sailing. Eventually I managed to stop it. The rotating propeller shaft could cause injury to me while repairing the leak. The space to crawl into was past the engine into a tiny space behind the engines gearbox.. How I manage that was a miracle.

We prepared everything for the job. Pipe cutter and joiners, spare copper line. Gry being my assistant passing tools to me.

(I have had experience in fixing leaks like that, as this has occurred before.)

In no time at all the bad section was cut out and a new copper pipe fitted. Next job was topping up the hydraulic fluid reservoir and bleed the lines of air. Within 2 hours all was done and the hydraulic steering functioning again. We left the emergency tiller in place just in case.

Repair at sea

10-Mar-2007


Day 24 Land Ahoy!! 30 miles out we spot Hiva Oa in the Marquesas on the horizon. Disappointingly the wind died on us, We all decided not to spend another night at sea with flapping sails. On comes the engine and we motor the last 30 miles to the harbour of Atuona. Dropping anchor after 24 days and celebrating our save arrival with a cold beer and sprite.

Arrival
Total distance covered: 3000 nm (5400 km)
Distance sailed (Log): 3333 nm (6000 km)
Duration at sea: 24 days 5 hours
Average miles/day towards target: 124 nm
Best distance towards target: 157 nm (equals 6.5kts)
Average speed/day towards target: 5 kts
Fuel consumption: 250 liters (1/4 tank)
Water consumption: 750 liters (1/2 tank plus rain water.)
Food supply: Plenty left
Fish caught: 2 Tuna, 2 Wahoo’s (lost 1 lure)
Most spectacular sight: Fraser’s Dolphin’s
Spotted: No ship, no boats or yachts, no planes, just us!
Communication: Email by Mini Sat.phone.

Thanks for reading our story.

Toni

www.adventure-yachting.net
svlittleswan@yahoo.com.au