Jan./Feb. 2007 Author Gry This morning as I was varnishing Little Swan’s new gunwales, before the sun got too harsh for my Viking skin, I was not alone - like everywhere in The Galapagos you get amazed by all the lovely creatures who peep from the cliffs, the seabed, the water, the trees, the sky Next to me on the bowsprit my pelican was sitting (making a mess with “white paint” I knew I would have to clean up after him; never mind, I like a bit of company ). From below a shark showed up, a black tipped shark; he was on his way to the harbour to feed on some easy prey in there. I continued working. After a short while a school of “brown handkerchiefs” came towards me - slowly gliding through the water - 40 or more golden rays! It can be difficult to get a job done when you get disturbed by wildlife all the time!Half an hour later a marine iguana popped by - probably a more adventurous member of the lazy bunch I saw near the water front the other day - or maybe he got tired of all the tourists? And now I mention the tourists: It is far touristier here than I expected. Sea lions and pelican The population of the Galapagos archipelago has risen from 5000 in 1980 to more than 25.000 nowadays and despite intentions of making law and regulations to protect these unique islands with all their endemic species the tourist crowd grows every year. This causes huge problems regarding the increased amount of garbage, pollution, illegal fishing etc. People from the mainland move here hoping to make a fortune on the growing tourist industry - many get disappointed though. This is the sad story of Galapagos - and also and unavoidable part of my visit to the enchanted islands. I do not believe there are many places left where money doesn’t rule. Want To Play Giant tortoise Marine Iguana Baby massage But Galapagos has given us many a wonderful experience: giant turtles, creatures from the past bigger than I had imagined; booby birds with turquoise feet who catch fish by plunge diving; Blue-footed booby marine iguanas black as the lava they clung onto with their strong claws (it is good to know that they are vegetarians!) playful sea lions which kept us awake with their bubbles around the hull at night and kept Toni busy because they wanted to sleep in his dinghy we have had a memorable mountain bike ride never to be forgotten because we were completely wasted in the heat and because brain and intestines were rattling around and relocated as we arrived to see ONE flamingo!! I have to mention Isla Isabela. Here we had some of the very best experiences. “Los Tunnels” near Cabo Rosa had fantastic lava formations consisting of small islands connected by natural bridges and in these natural canals and in the most clear water you can imagine there were lots of turtles, parrot fish, blacktip sharks and different rays. Los Tunnels, Isabela Flightless cormorant on nest Blacktip shark We also swam with the black tipped sharks, white spotted rays and sea turtles - marine life in an abundance we have never seen before. A highlight for me was to get to see the rare flightless cormorant (only 1500 individuals in the world) at the West coast of Isabela. When we say goodbye to the islands we head for the Marquises: Toni skipper, Vagn from The Philippines/Denmark and me. It will maybe be 30 +/- days at sea, so please wish all of us good luck. We do not really know what to expect. Maybe the biggest challenge will be not to get bored to death or to be left with your own thoughts. I am sure next report from Little Swan will be an unusual one. Carpe diem. Gry Sea turtle P.S. Stumbled upon this by C. Darwin; he is talking about travelling/sailing: Couldn’t have said it better myself!” It both sharpens, and partly allays that want and craving which a man experiences although every corporeal sense be fully satisfied The effect ought to be to teach him good-humoured patience, freedom from selfishness, the habit of acting for himself, and of making the best of every occurrence. In short, he ought to partake of the characteristic qualities of most sailors. Travelling ought also to teach him distrust; but at the same time he will discover how many truly kind-hearted people there are, with whom he never before had, or even again will have any further communication, who yet are ready to offer him the most disinterested assistance. Gry Bastholm,crew and photographer on Little Swan www.adventure-yachting.net svlittleswan@yahoo.com.au Crab