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September 2007 |
Authore: Alan Garth |
From Vuda Point Marina we had a 5 mile passage to Lautoka the second city of Fiji to clear Little Swan and ourselves out of Fiji with the authorities. After clearing we sailed for a couple of islands one of which was inhabited. We tried to find a way through the coral reef but no luck. I had hoped to take part in the traditional ceremony of drinking Kava with the local chief but it was not to be and we instead anchored off 'Castaway Island" used in the Tom Hanks film. Went ashore for a swim off the beach and a walkabout |
Our next stop was the Island of Vanuatu and the capital of Port Vila which was a passage of just over 500 miles. This took us 4 days which with rough seas, strong winds and heavy rain was good going and we arrived last Saturday in the morning in time to get through immigration and find a mooring for LS. In the evening we went to an outdoor South Pacific concert.
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Port Villa |
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Held a nibbly and drinks party on board Little Swan and for a number of crews from other yachts in harbour. Amongst them were a couple from Sydney who I had last seen in the Caribbean last December and a couple from Adelaide whom Toni last saw 10 years ago when setting off on his circum-navigation. It is always great to meet up with other yacht crews again and swap experiences of travels to all parts of the globe. |
Drinking Buddies |
As large amounts of beer and rum were consumed all five crew from LS were a bit the worse for wear next morning as we set off for a car tour with guide of the island at the crack of dawn. We had a very enjoyable and informative trip and ended up climbing up a waterfall. We had all recovered from our hangovers by then!! |
After 4 days in Port Vila we decided to explore a little bit more of the Island of Efate by sea . Before setting off we took down the 7 year old Genoa which was looking a bit frayed and hoisted a new one that Toni had purchased in Thailand many years ago and which had been in its sail bag ever since, Our first stop was at Hideaway Island which had the worlds only undersea post box where for a fee of course you could send a waterproof postcard! After anchoring overnight there Toni and I took the dinghy ashore for an early walk along the deserted beech for a mile or so. Then it was off for a 3 hour sail to Port Havannah not really a port but a bay with a local village. |
Vanuatu Village |
This had been the site of an extensive American base in World War 2 and the locals had set up a number of roadside stalls selling shells, model outrigger canoes and old coca cola bottles!! The latter were on sale for 1000 vatu or ?5 and came from all different bottling plants in the US. I managed not to succumb to the temptation to buy!!
The last anchorage before returning to Port Vila was in Savannah Bay. Here we also took the dinghy ashore for a walk followed by a swim in the warm clear water. Then it was time to up anchor and sail back to Port Vila to clear both ourselves and Little Swan with the authorities, stock up with food and water for the next 7-Tanna is the name of the next island we wish to visit. It has some active volcanoes which are worth seeing.
Had an enjoyable and straight forward trip of 140 miles from Port Vila on the Island of Efate to the Island of Tanna which is still part of the country known as Vanuatu. It took us some time to find the recommended anchorage of Port Resolution as the GPS position on charts is about 2 miles adrift from its actual location. |
Port Resolution |
On entering the bay which makes up Port Resolution (named after Cook’s vessel in 1774 when it was first discovered ) we had to find a way through the coral heads and rocks to find a nice sheltered anchorage in 5 metres of water surrounded by low hills and thus enjoying good protection from the wind and ocean swells. Four other yachts were already there 3 from Australia and one from the USA. |
Tanna Lunchoen |
Our first stop ashore was at the so called ‘Yacht Club’. Here we arranged a lobster lunch on the beach prepared by Lea a local girl who spoke mainly French. One of the highlights of Tanna Island is the life Volcano. |
Tanna Volcano |
A 4 wheel drive vehicle drove us through the jungle wilderness to the bottom of the Volcano. We walked the rest to the rim of the Volcano and looking down the crater of molten lava . Every now and then there were some mini eruptions throwing molten Lava high up in the air accompanied with loud explosive noises. Spectalurar! |
| We also visited the local village where we saw the primary school, church and cultural centre. The locals are very friendly and most speak good English whilst others speak French. A chance for me to practice my very rusty French of 50 years ago and it is surprising how much is still in the memory! |
| The villagers live much as they have done for centuries with no electricity or running water/sewage. A spring gives them fresh water. Some cooking is done on the hot springs that are part of the volcanic activity and other hot water areas are reserved for clothes washing and relaxing in ‘hot tubs ‘formed in the rocks. It is very much a subsistence economy with all villagers growing their own vegetables, having chickens, goats and pigs and collecting local fruits as well as of course fishing. There are no phones, newspapers or TV and the local language is purely a verbal one and is not written down. Youngsters are given instruction by the elders in the tribal traditions and cultures to ensure that it is handed down the generations. |
Tanna Warrior |
| The last recorded instance of cannibalism was in 1969 but it had mainly been eliminated in the then called ‘New Hebrides’ by the end of the 19th century thanks to the large numbers of missionaries sent out from the UK and France . The main source of cash income is from tourism and a number of activities such as the yacht club and beach restaurant are run to benefit the community and in this respect the school is of paramount importance and the main recipient of funds generated. |
Tanna Sailors
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| Before we left for our next stop of New Caledonia we put on a film show in the Yacht Club for the locals and about 50 attended mostly children. It was a great success and the laughter from the audience made our having to transport TV, generator and petrol to and from shore by dinghy well worth the effort. |
Tanna DVD Night |
| I hope to return to Vanuatu in the future and spend more time with these very happy and always smiling people. Life without cars, TV, and burgers seems very attractive. Everything is done as per the natural order of things and there are no overweight ‘couch potatoes’ here! |
